Fashion for the 21st Century We Always Envisioned

Iris van Herpen exceeds expectations.

A couple of years ago I started a journal on my absolute favorite artists and designers. Not just simply ones I really really liked, but ones that were beyond subjective preference — artists and designers that were truly phenomenal.

The goal of this journal was to figure out what it was — the quiddity, the essence — that made their work so breathtaking, so amazing, so supreme. And after contemplating factors from sprezzatura to self-discovery, I finally figured it out.

Exceeding expectations. Now I mean this in a grand sense; not just an A+ versus an A. I mean exceeding your expectations of what something can be, a particular potential within the world that you are seeing fully actualized for the first time.

And that’s how I feel about Iris van Herpen.

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These Scarves Show off What Digital Printing is All About

the Spring/Summer 2011 collection from Charlotte Linton


Traditional fabric printing involves a limited color palette. Whether it’s block printing or screen printing, more colors always means more cost.

One of the greatest thing about digital textile printing is that designs can have unlimited colors at the same cost as a single color. Yet designers using digital fabric printing still cling to flat designs with a few, flat colors.

Let Charlotte Linton show you how it’s done.

above: Mineralogy

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#Umbrelladelphia — Rescuing Philly’s Broken Umbrellas

upcycled style for people + pets

Seeing the things that people are doing with Ponoko is inspiring and truly rewarding. I want to share with you a project I came across when Taryn Zychal, of Recycling Zychal, posted a pic of a stencil she had lasercut with Ponoko.

#Umbrelladelphia is a new Twitter campaign to locate discarded and broken umbrellas in Philadelphia. Zychal and her team of umbrella rescuers keep an eye out for tweets, and then go out and grab the umbrellas for use in their line of recycled products.

“…you can simply tweet the location of the broken umbrella that you spot [and] give a short description or score BONUS POINTS by taking a photo.

…make sure you include the tag #umbrelladelphia in the tweet so that it will come up on our live feed. One of our umbrella rescuers, or even myself, will come and rescue it and bada bing bada boom, everyone wins! Tweet us 5 different broken umbrella locations and guess who gets a present!? YOU DO!”

To spread the word, Zychal and crew are marketing guerilla style — leaving chalk stencil tags all over the city.

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Spoonflower Digitally Prints on Silk!

cotton schmotton

On-demand digital textile printers Spoonflower announced today the addition of silk to their printable fabrics! Crepe de chine, to be specific.

Crepe de chine is a 100% silk with a slightly bumpy texture. (It’s not the ultra shiny stuff; that’s silk charmeuse.) The addition of crepe de chine silk makes six fabric choices including quilting cotton, organic sateen, organic knit, upholstery twill, linen-cotton blend canvas, and cotton lawn.

And don’t forget, you can sell your original silk textiles in the Spoonflower shop.

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Sustainability You Can Wear

Feisty Elle’s environmentally conscious process is reflected in her use of organic forms and materials.

Leslie Yang is the founder and designer for Feisty Elle, a San Francisco-based company offering vibrant statement jewelry and accessories made from sustainable materials such as merino wool felt and bamboo ply.

How did you come across Ponoko?

You know, Ponoko and I have been working together for ages that I honestly don’t recall. But I do know that I had been keeping an eye on their services and was beyond stoked the day I found out they were lasercutting wool felt. I love felt and up until that point, had been needlefelting and wetfelting women’s accessories.  I was making women’s accessories and other products by hand with some light sewing. Finding out about Ponoko was like entering into the 21st century!

When did you start making with Ponoko and what type of products do you make?

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Custom Knit Patterns from Voice Recordings

technology + textiles + mass-customization

It started out with a project for the Ars Electronica festival in 2007. Fashion designer Magdalena Kohler and product designer Hanna Wiesener created ‘Gelsomina’, a Voice Knitting Machine. They hacked an old knitting machine so that the pattern “could be directly controlled by live user input.”

Fast forward a few years, and the Gelsomina project has evolved into an interdisciplinary fashion knit label: Trikoton. The Berlin based company offers knit-basics — sweater, vest, leggings, and a few accessories — which are constructed using a dot matrix pattern based on a customer’s audio sample.

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United Nude — High Tech Meets High Heels

experimental footwear from a fool in love

Even though I wasn’t exactly impressed with fall’s runway offerings, I do love fashion — very much. So I’m excited to share this guest post from 3D printing expert Joris Peels about an innovative shoe company called United Nude. (Which, by the way, started off with a designer’s attempt to woo back his girlie with an architectural shoe. Certainly not the worst way to impress a lady.) ::

I’m a man so have never really spent much time lusting after high heels. Actually perhaps I have, but what I mean to say is that I’ve never wanted to own a pair. We once had opposite sex day in High School and one glimpse of me in my mom’s dress was enough for my little sister to run away crying and simultaneously end my cross-dressing days forever. That is until I walked into United Nude’s flagship store in Amsterdam.

The brand has been around since 2003, and the flagship store has been open for around a year. United Nude is inspired by design, architecture and materials. The brand was started by Rem D. Koolhaas (no not this Rem Koolhaas, a younger relative) and Galahad Clark (as in Clarks). And they make shoes that bring footwear kicking and screaming into this century.

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Fall 2010 Fashion Trends

We are in for an ugly season.

I thought I would girlie up the blog a little bit with some CLOTHES.

Lasercutting has been a major theme in fashion for the past few seasons. And it isn’t at all this year (with the exception of one designer who I’ll be writing about later), so I’ll just get that out of the way. Digital textile printing, too, seems to have lost the imagination of designers. The novelty appeal, as Sarah Mower of Style.com writes, “quickly becomes cliché.” The passing of Alexander McQueen — whose spring collection was a digitally printed tour de force — likely affected designers’ decision to step back from digital prints.

The new NEW? There’s an obsession with asymmetry and militants in outer space. Knits are huge, and I mean literally. Texture is stuck-on rather than built-in. And anyone in mourning will find they have the best clothing selection ever. These trends and more, after the jump.

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Product Design Delight from Life Instyle 2010

Small business is beautiful and booming at the Melbourne trade show.

I hadn’t heard of Life Instyle until I picked up on a tweet from Ponoko user Melanie Gray Augustin. She posted a couple of photos of her Life Instyle trade show booth which incorporated red, lasercut felt flowers she made with Ponoko. The result was a Japanese-chic space with her Kimono Reincarnate jewelry line displayed on graphic, cherry tree branches.

I was really impressed with Augustin’s booth and decided to check out more photos from Melbourne’s Life Instyle trade show that just wrapped up yesterday. What a gorgeous event! All of the booths are so creative and inviting!

Photographer Claudio Oyarce took lots of great photos that are up on the Life Instyle blog. Some shots of my favorite products after the jump.

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Centerview: ShirtsMyWay cofounder Peter Crawfurd

mass-customization for men’s dress shirts

There’s been a lot of buzz about ShirtsMyWay, the online service that lets users customize dress shirts for men. I’ve been really into menswear lately (One of my new side projects is trying to get my boyfriend to dress like Steve McQueen.) so I took a test drive of the site and e-interviewed ShirtsMyWay cofounder Peter Crawfurd.

• Where did the idea for your company come from?
Michael Yang, my business partner and fellow cofounder, spent a lot of time considering which business we should start and finally decided on transforming how people shop for dress shirts. We had both gotten tailored shirts made throughout Asia and thought there should be a way to make that available to more people. We also wanted to give the idea a new twist with a flexible design program.

• Men aren’t the first audience you think of when it comes to clothes. How have you approached mass-customization in fashion specifically for a male clientele?

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